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Nemesis Maximo wrote:I say go for it, because IMO the FoC Grimlock is a majorly disappointing figure, so there's not much you can do that will ruin it. But like I said, that's my opinion.
Now for actually doing the custom, I would put a base coat down, especially on his legs. That way, it will be easier to color over the yellow and blue. Not sure how much detail Jin goes into in hs tutorials, but I've known him to be anything but detail oriented.
If you DO want to practice on a different figure, try the CHUG Bumblebee/Nightbeat toy. It's the easiest one I've ever dismantled.
SW's SilverHammer wrote:Eat my ass funpub.
Burn wrote:And this is for taking Nemesis Maximo seriously.
*high fives Silly in the face*
carytheone wrote:I can't be assed to do any better right now.
Nemesis Maximo wrote:Well, like I said, it's only MY opinion. In al fairness though, it looks pretty good just standing straight up.
On a less boased note (), I do think it's also an easy enough figure that you should have little trouble painting it.
SKYWARPED_128 wrote:crimsondeception wrote:Hey I'm still confused about sanding. I just got some sandpapers which are about 100-600 grits, but I don't know what exactly the amount of grits affect what. But the main thing I'm confused about is where I am going to sand.
I just washed my figures with dishwater soap and warm water, scrubbed a bit with a toothbrush, which is supposed to eliminate the mold release which helps the paint stick better. So do I use the sandpaper to sand it all over to help the paint stick? And do I peel off the paint as I sand? Tried to find a guide about it but couldn't, so I feel like an idiot.
Well, for better paint adhesion, it's usually better to use primer or adhesion promoter. Sanding will do the trick, but depending on how fine the sandpaper is, you'll get visible scratches under the paint job, because paint doesn't cover imperfections. If the paint DOES cover those scratches, then it's way too thick.
Sanding off the pre-existing paint won't hurt, but it's not always necessary.
Anyways, here are several situations where you'll need to use sandpaper:
1. After priming, you sand the surface to smooth out any imperfections on the plastic--I usually go with 600 grit. However, this mostly applies to model kits, as TF's usually have pretty even surfaces right out of the box.
1. You can use sandpaper after filling a seam, to smooth out any residual plastic, putty or filler you used to fill up the seam line.
3. If you get a lumpy "orange peel" finish on your paint job, you'll have to sand it down. The grit of the sandpaper will depend on how bad the orange peel is.
4. Finer grits (1000-2000 grit) are for polishing a paint job to give it that "showroom shine". Obviously, you'll need to lay on a pretty heavy paint job beforehand, because you'll risk sanding too deep. Also, go for more durable paints like lacquers or urethanes.
Hope this helps some.
crimsondeception wrote:That was very helpful, I can see why the acrylic paint wasn't sticking to my Galvatron's gun... The enamels stick better but I grow more concerned with the smell and fumes from the paint so I'm trying to stick to acrylic paint. Thanks again!
crimsondeception wrote:I need a new tip now!
I am probably going to have to paint over it now but when I tried to paint over Armor Knight Prime's shield, the orange plastic does not seem to let paint adhere to it. Both acrylic and enamel paint just pushes over each brush stroke. It just looks messy. I had washed it, sand it and even soaked it in Super Clean degreaser and it will not stick. Same problem with Galvatron's gun which is now a blue mess. Anyone know if priming this with krylong metallic silver will help?
Glad I could help!
About the fumes, do you paint using a brush or an airbrush? I could be wrong, but in most cases, if you paint using a brush, you should be fine just painting near a window with a table fan blowing the fumes away from you.
SW's SilverHammer wrote:Eat my ass funpub.
Burn wrote:And this is for taking Nemesis Maximo seriously.
*high fives Silly in the face*
carytheone wrote:I can't be assed to do any better right now.
Nemesis Maximo wrote:So I have the Hasbro version of MP-01, which was released in 2004/06 for the 20th anniversary of the brand. Now, his thighs the insides of his knees are made of thin plastic, and are holding his heavy die-cast legs. The plastic pieces inside his knees are actually broken, beyond what I think some superglue and careful placement will fix. Got any advice as to my options?
crimsondeception wrote:Glad I could help!
About the fumes, do you paint using a brush or an airbrush? I could be wrong, but in most cases, if you paint using a brush, you should be fine just painting near a window with a table fan blowing the fumes away from you.
Yea about that... Boston's been dumped on by snow and freezing weather and I didn't feel like waiting for it to get better and so I just took risks. But starting to find some decent acrylic paint that actually sticks and I think I will stick to them as enamel's just smell bad. :S
anyway, getting better at paint base coats and stuff, however painting small areas prove to be a challenge even with my detail brush. Areas such as bayformer eyes are hard to paint like the AoE dinobots. Trying to paint the pupil red while the the eyelid silver and the rest of area a darker color (to give off the illusion that the eye is glowing) but the brush isn't small enough and the paint gets everywhere. The brush I got is the smallest they had in the store, so does anyone know a way to paint these small areas?
Underc3211 wrote:First; I'd recommend picking up a set of hobby screwdrivers. I you don't have one that fits I'm guessing you only have tool screwdrivers. To make sure take the titanmaster to the store with you as an example. I've found toys usually use similar size screws in general.
Second; once It's removed try using nail polish or paint on the slider. Once dry it should slide up and stay with little problem.
Carnivius_Prime wrote:Underc3211 wrote:First; I'd recommend picking up a set of hobby screwdrivers. I you don't have one that fits I'm guessing you only have tool screwdrivers. To make sure take the titanmaster to the store with you as an example. I've found toys usually use similar size screws in general.
Second; once It's removed try using nail polish or paint on the slider. Once dry it should slide up and stay with little problem.
Hi, I tried using a variety of precision screwdrivers from two different sets I've used before to fix watches and other lil things. The screw doesn't budge at all. :/ I can keep trying but worried I'll end up stripping the screw.
Thanks for advice though.
EnJaySee wrote:The best way to remove one ended pins (especially pesky wheel ones)? Drill 'em out! I use a 1mm drill bit to drill in from the other side. Then pin-push then out and fill in the holes... No one will ever know
Nemesis Maximo wrote:Okay, so does anyone have any ideas as to which figure I can use in a particular custom; I aim to make a CHUG style Slipstream using the recent Windblade, but I don't have a clear idea who's head I should use. I believe Cybertron Thunderblast would be a good candidate, but I don't own her, and I don't want to spring ~$70 just to have her head.
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