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Dealer wrote:Probably the wrong place but...

Is there a way to bleach a tf?

Remove paint and such, but can you actually eg bleach one white?


Curious is all.

Are you looking to remove the yellowing that can affect white plastic? If so, I don't think there's much that can be done. White plastic takes on a yellow hue when exposed to sunlight over a period of time. I think it's a chemical change in the plastic itself and cannot be 'removed' as such. I've heard of some people using toothpaste, but I'm not sure that would work, and I wouldn't recommend it myself.

I've noticed the paint on some of my Figures is starting to wear off/chip.
Is there anyway to stop this happening?

Uber Galvatron wrote:I've noticed the paint on some of my Figures is starting to wear off/chip.
Is there anyway to stop this happening?

Clear coat them. use a good clear coat or Future floor finish. Future is the bomb-diggity-da-damn!!!!

I bought Stealth Animated Lockdown today and broke the left fist off within 15 minutes of fooling around with him!! It's broken into two pieces, how can I glue it back together?

Superglue or take it back and tell them what happened and exchange it. That's about all I know but make sure to get the SG that dries clear. Some of them dont.

I want to make Ironhide's face silver and I have one of those sharpie paint markers. could I use that to color his face?

Guneagle01 wrote:I want to make Ironhide's face silver and I have one of those sharpie paint markers. could I use that to color his face?

Yes but I would find one wth a fine tip to get it all. There is a five pack of metallic markers at most Targets or Wal-Mart's that was under the brand of RoseArt but the same ones are ina generic package now. Has Blue, Silver, Gold, Green and Purple and they are just as good with a wide and fine tip.

does anybody know were to get molding clay or plastic becouse i am making a repiant of jazz into smoke screen and obveosly i need to reform the face and also is testors piant dangerous cuz i read on the label that it couses cancer and is scared the ship out of me

I am trying to complete my G1 Devastator. Does anyone know where I can find the canopy for Scrapper? I have checked all the parts sites I normally use without luck. Will the canopy off the knock-off fit and match colour? If so, where can I find one of those? The ones in shops around here are all yellow.

I am also struggling to find a G1 Hook. (I have some spare parts in the form of a broken G2 Hook, so a broken one may work depending on what is broken)

yellowing seems to be a common thing for old figures,but slight crack can be quite a pain for many.

what i normally would do (started not too long ago),is to apply those car vinyl protectant to my figures periodically.u know,those Son-Of-A-Gun protectant or alike.just a light wiping around the surfaces would do quite a lot,in terms of the figures' plactic durability.avoid applying at joints though,coz that can lead to a somewhat loose joint.

my two-cents worth anyway.not sure bout u guys,but u can try it out

I had a colleague who told me that to remove the tarnishing of the chrome parts, we can use a liquid that is slightly acidic in nature to remove the tarnish and then it will be good as new.

Such fluids include Coke and orange juice, these contain some acids. True? hmmm..i aint very sure about that! =/

hippymule wrote:does anybody know were to get molding clay or plastic becouse i am making a repiant of jazz into smoke screen and obveosly i need to reform the face and also is testors piant dangerous cuz i read on the label that it couses cancer and is scared the ship out of me

Apoxie or Fix-it Sculpt by Aves is great stuff, gotta get it online or it's real expensive. Do a search for Aves studio and it should b e first or second result. Also, almost ANY enamel paint and some, very few, acrylics like Tamiya brand can cause Cancer. Use adequate ventialtion and you should be fine, or stick with Acrylics. Testors Acrylics are fine, not harmful.

http://www.allspark.com/content/view/3960/20/

Found this over on the Allspark. In a nutshell it's a way to remove yellowing and discolorization by soaking the damaged pieces in a solution of high concentration H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). The pieces are placed in a sealed clear glass contained with the solution and placed in direct sunlight. The results are dramatic. The long term results and potential damage are unknown at this point. I purchased a 27% solution at a local pool supply store. I'm going to experiment on some junk pieces.

I just read through that thread and was amazed at the results on some of the figures they tried it on. There was one G1 Ratchet that was nearly BROWN, and it whitened right up...

I would like to point out some things they mention in the original thread, USE GLOVES when handling the figures & the H2O2, and don't use a container with an air-tight seal (as it might explode).

If anyone's interested in trying it out, read through the orignal thread and read up on the cautions and instructions. Not only did it whiten the plastic, but stripped some stickers/paint off the figure, as well as discolored some colored pieces (that showed severe discoloration in the first place) even LIGHTER than they were originally. Let us know how it fares for you El Duque, I have a Jetfire that would love a bath in this stuff...

El Duque wrote:http://www.allspark.com/content/view/3960/20/

Found this over on the Allspark. In a nutshell it's a way to remove yellowing and discolorization by soaking the damaged pieces in a solution of high concentration H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). The pieces are placed in a sealed clear glass contained with the solution and placed in direct sunlight. The results are dramatic. The long term results and potential damage are unknown at this point. I purchased a 27% solution at a local pool supply store. I'm going to experiment on some junk pieces.

Okay I got some questions. First off what would be the best paint to match the red on UNIVERSE 2.O DELUXE STARSCREAM (THE NEW ONE) to paint a bit of chest plastic that Hasbro left white. Also his cockpit doesn't snap all the way in in robot mode. I have isolated the problem: his peg is too damn short. Any suggestions? I can't return it because it was a HTS pre-order.

I just acquired a pair of vintage shoulder launchers to go with my Commemorative (TRU Reissue) Smokescreen so as to have launchers that actually, y'know, launch the missiles that go in them, but discovered that they only had springs to push the release buttons back up, but not the ones to propel the missiles. Anyone know where one can find springs small enough to fit in the missile chamber of the Prowl/Bluestreak/Smokescreen shoulder launchers?

MegatronTheGreat wrote:Okay I got some questions. First off what would be the best paint to match the red on UNIVERSE 2.O DELUXE STARSCREAM (THE NEW ONE) to paint a bit of chest plastic that Hasbro left white. Also his cockpit doesn't snap all the way in in robot mode. I have isolated the problem: his peg is too damn short. Any suggestions? I can't return it because it was a HTS pre-order.

Citadel/Games Workshop - Blood Red, good as it gets

Archatron wrote:

MegatronTheGreat wrote:Okay I got some questions. First off what would be the best paint to match the red on UNIVERSE 2.O DELUXE STARSCREAM (THE NEW ONE) to paint a bit of chest plastic that Hasbro left white. Also his cockpit doesn't snap all the way in in robot mode. I have isolated the problem: his peg is too damn short. Any suggestions? I can't return it because it was a HTS pre-order.

Citadel/Games Workshop - Blood Red, good as it gets

Thanks.

With the talk about fixing yellowed and brown plastic, I thought I'd share my story with you guys.

G1 Cerebros

The story:
I bought this Cerebros off Ebay for a very good price since the plastic was yellowed and even brown on some parts. He looked BAD, these pics don't do it justice.

Here are the BEFORE pics:







I did the Hydrogen Peroxide 3% treatment in a glass jar. We didn't get much sun around here so I bought a cheap U.V. light and focused it on the jar.
I did 2 treatments keeping the parts in the jar for approximately 24 hours each treatment. I bought my Peroxide at the dollar store for 50 cents a bottle, I used 2 bottles(one for each treatment).

The U.V. light really worked well on it, I can't recommend it enough. You can get a cheap one for around $10-$17 at the pet store. It eats batteries like nothing else though, luckily I had an AC adapter for mine.


AFTER:
All the brown and yellow spots are gone. I can't believe how good it came out.







EXCELLENT RESULTS!!

The plastic was not damaged in any way from doing this for anyone that's wondering(so far).

That's an interesting result on trying to reverse the plastic yellowing. I've got some pieces in a black-lit lightbox right now with some H2O2. We'll see what happens.

If we can reverse the yellowing of white plastic then a cure for cancer, cold fusion, and artificial gravity can't be that far behind!

Hello folks! I have this stress marks on my universe Powerglide:



For what I know, this is a common problem right? Exist any way to fix it or is not relevant.

Thanks

I have heard the peroxide trick is only a TEMPORARY fix. it will change back in a few months. i haven't tried it myself, but i read it on tf's wiki

Thanks for the reply. I've read other way to fix this, just loosen the screws, this is true? I only transformed him once, is too late or not? Thanks again.

I'm looking for that guide on 'fixing' Classics Ironhide so his head isn't at such a bad angle, but can't find it again. Anyone help?